Used Hay Budden Anvil, is it worth it? Been looking around and found a guy on Craigslist selling a Hay Budden Anvil for 350. Anvils in America by Richard Postman. I sometimes come off as an hay budden serial numbers snob,' sorry. Here is my anvil and one of my leg vises. Thanks, Peter, and all. My personal thinking is an anvil can be capped by using T1 plate and brass to bond the cap plate to gtunes musicapp base, although I've never tried it.

> BTW although two british firms Mousehole and Peter Wright used the > old hundredweight system of marking, most of the american firms did > not. They used a simple weight stamp. Hay-Budden also used > a 1-3 digit stamp that is believed to refer to the lot of steel > used in its construction so if the 157 is not indicative of the > weight it is probably this lot number) Would I be correct in interpreting the markings on the side of an anvil: M & H ARMITAGE MOUSE HOLE 0. 21 to mean that it is a 105 lb Mousehole anvil? I haven't been able to find any other markings (the sides were a bit rusty).

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Hay Budden Anvil, It weighs 200# it is a swelled horn with Tip intack, Does anyone have an idea what it was Made for, The Hardy tool is removable, A collector friend of Mine bought it Years ago, Said it was worth $3000.00? ---------- Post added at 10:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 AM ---------- Hay Budden Anvil, It weighs 200# it is a swelled horn with Tip intack, Does anyone have an idea what it was Made for, The Hardy tool is removable, A collector friend of Mine bought it Years ago, Said it was worth $3000.00? ---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:43 AM.

Cutter, you got a good deal. That 200 pounder for free ain't too shabby, Paul.

But I would gladly > accept a nice Moushole over a rough Peter Wright any day! I had heard Peter Wright anvils mentioned quite a bit (hoped to find one), but I don't recall coming across the Mousehole name before I found this anvil. I am waiting to hear if two other anvils (around 200 lb and also fairly old) might be available for sale. I haven't seen them yet, maybe one of them will turn out to be a Peter Wright.:) > > >Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything > >else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course. I got the portable > >forge on the same day.:) > > How long before you had red hot steel using them? > I still had to find coal (an adventure and learning experience in itself).

No index, each chapter started with page 1, typos. >I'll probably look at removing the heavy >gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from >a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but >double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications >in steel, make some stronger legs. Why don't you just make the semi brake drum into another less 'portable' forge? BTW semi brakedrums can be too deep for their width.

I haven't found anything like it.yet:( Ted •. I have a HAY-BUDDEN anvil with a base that I have not been able to find any information on. The anvil is 150 pounds(155 lbs. Per my bathroom scale), serial number 207415.

It is a lively anvil. > > Any of you Brits know anything about it's Mfr? Sounds like a Brooks anvil. They are still available new from Centaur Forge.

Try this nifty little tool from to find out how much it weighs in lbs. • Dictionary from for those hard to google terms.

I got the portable >forge on the same day.:) How long before you had red hot steel using them? >Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens, 0:00 น.

My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any that I didn't want to keep as reference books.

The raised plate would allow me to make a firepot of some sort between the plate and the bottom of the drum. I don't know how much of the depth that will use (I'll have a better idea after tinkering some more with the forge I have now), but I was planning to cut gaps in the sides of the brakedrum. I'll cut the slots with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder, so I can just tack some sheetmetal tabs on the removed sections and use them to close the slots (if I ever need to close them). > I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To > get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that > fits inside the brake drum rim. I left about a 2' gap where the ends of > the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap > to allow long pieces to poke through. Its blown by a small, old vacuum > cleaner---sort of like a dustbuster but from the '50's got it > at the fleamarket for $3 without the bag--just a round aluminium pipe, > I use a dimmer switch to control the speed---gotta love those universal > motors!--al in all I figure I have less than $10 in the forge and it > used no special tools to build, (ie: no welder was needed).

> More to the point, amongst the nearly complete set of blacksmith >tools I am now the proud owner of is the anvil. It is marked >underneath the horn, on the foot, with a series of stamped >numbers/letters. The first character looks like a capital T with a >capital Z that has been rotated clockwise 45 degrees stamped over the >top of the T; not above it, but in the same space as the T. >Following that is '157' a bit of a space, and then 'A86799' I have >not found any other legible markings.

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They def made things to last back then, and here's proof! It still has a nice flat face on it, and even tho some of the corners are gone there are enough to work with if I need a good corner. Also hardy and pritchel(sp?) holes on the top as well.

Maybe it is time I re-read the book myself. I see real world prices all over the map on anvils. Too learn about anvils then I suggest 'Anvils in America' by Richard Postman. I would say the definite work: large hi-quality printed format, very well illustrated and not at all cheep.

Hello I would like help in establishing the serial number and manufacture date of this 230# Hay Budden anvil I inherited from my neighbor when he died. I’m hoping that the weight and partial serial number will identify a unique anvil. My best guess at the S/N is 1 (2, 3 or 8) 4 (2, 3 or 8) 7 but I guess the first digit could also be a 4.

This is a multi-thousand year old trade and much of the information garnered from those times were lost during the industrial revolution. Do your own research to double check if you agree with the opinions stated here before following them. This Sub now has a Discord Channel. Read our and, And be sure to check out below. Read before attempting any kind of forging. Rules and guidelines for posting: • Please be considerate to others when posting/commenting. Blatant troll posts/comments will be removed.

A subreddit devoted to all things blacksmith. Feel free to show off your latest creations or get advice on a problem, or anything else related to blacksmithing! January: February: March: April: May/June: Please remember that any information/tips/tricks you get from this subreddit are not the end-all-be-all of blacksmithing.

Not a price guide and probably not worth the cost just too sell one item. There are 40 pages on HayBudden. Over 500 pages in all. Reading Postman would tell you where they fit in the scheme of things - history and quality wise. Hay Budden is a well respected and sought after maker.

NO, it's not the biggest deal in the world, but I wish it hay budden serial numbers gone. I check this forum several times a and am always happy to see that someone has taken the time to write something, especially as useful as your posts.

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I put a layer of clay on the hearth and covered the outer two rings of holes. That reduced the diameter of the grate, and left it in a shallow depression, instead of raised above the hearth.

That makes sense to me, guys. I took photos of the anvil, and can now make out the serial number. It is either 38469 or 39469. Hopefully, someone can tell me what year this was manufactured. This is the only anvil I've ever owned, and I'll probably sell/trade in the future. I have no idea what it's worth, but I don't want someone to take advantage of my lack of knowledge. Lana del rey full discography torrent. I did know enough to know that antique anvils are sought after.

It needs a little work but I think I am going to fix it and use it for a while. The reason I was wondering about the book is I understand there is a section that tells the age of anvils by the serial number. My anvil's number is A34077. I would appreciate it if anyone has the book if they would look that up for me. Draftshoer said: Does anybody have a copy of this book?

My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any that I didn't want to keep as reference books. I'll get a copy of 'Anvils in America'. The only question is how long it will be before I can set aside the money (without my wife noticing). > BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information > on dating them. That would be helpful.

BTW semi brakedrums can be too deep for their width. I had a student who tried that route and found that sticking your piece nearly vertical was not the way to get an even heat. He ended up filling the bottom of the drum with gravel, putting a fireclay layer on top of that and then having a massively heavy forge---he abandoned it when he moved. (it would have worked better if he could have cut slots in the rim to allow work to go in horizontally.) I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that fits inside the brake drum rim. I left about a 2' gap where the ends of the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap to allow long pieces to poke through.

Thanks to Joe Barnhart who's Great Grandfather had a shop for Blacksmithing and Ford repair in Southern Illinois near the crossing of the Mississippi and Ohio River we have been provided a wonderful example of the Keen Kutter logo on a HB Anvil. Looks like HB may have misspelled a couple in error of the brand spelling??

If I had to guess I would put that anvil in the 1000.00 range or more to the right collector. It's very clean and the face and edges are real nice. I'd carefully strip that grey paint off the anvil and stand with some low impact stripper.

I know this anvil is fairly old (it was passed down, through the family, to the person I got it from), but I don't know just how old it is. > >Is a Mousehole anvil > >a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about > >equal? > > Both are well known firms with good reputations---I prefer the Peter > Wright myself since I find the Mouseholes to look kinda squat--look > like they were designed to take a lot of abuse.

Yes, your intrepretation of the anvil as a 105 pound MouseHole is correct. The MouseHole anvils were the first commercially produced anvils in the world and i would say that you made a good buy. Fred Holder In article, Paul says. Paul Stevens, 0:00 น. Fred Holder wrote: > > Paul, > > You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him. As far > as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: > > Richard Postman > 10 Fischer Court > Berrian Springs, MI 49103 > TEL: (616) 471-5426 Thanks for the address.

Reason: addition.

I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications in steel, make some stronger legs. It doesn't seem to end. I've got a pile of leftover bricks (including some firebrick), so I probably need to get a book on building a small cupola (next year - the forge and anvil will definitely use up most of my free time until we get some clear weather in the spring).:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers, 0:00 น. >My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the >required text every year or so.

Is a Mousehole anvil a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about equal? Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course. I got the portable forge on the same day.:) Paul Stevens Fred Holder, 0:00 น. Paul, You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him.

As far as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: Richard Postman 10 Fischer Court Berrian Springs, MI 49103 TEL: (616) 471-5426 Price for the book is $60.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling. Yes, your intrepretation of the anvil as a 105 pound MouseHole is correct.

Hay Budden is generaly regarded as one of the best anvils made. The size and condition of yours makes it rather desireable to the blacksmithing comunity. Value varies widely with location. Areas that settled early have lots of old anvils in barns and dont bring as much money.

I’m hoping that more experienced eyes will see fewer possibilities. To my eyes, the carefully struck Hay Budden logo on the front suggests earlier manufacture rather than later. Perhaps that is ‘wishful thinking?’ The anvil clearly saw hard use in its past. The back side was milled by about 3/16” and the first 12” of the face on that side is beaten down by about1/4”, leaving an about 1/2” wide angled face that overhangs the far side by about 1/8”, on average. What kind of work would have produced this kind of wear? Is it ‘normal’ for an anvil to be slightly ‘cocked’ with respect to its base?

(it would have worked better if he could have cut slots in the > rim to allow work to go in horizontally.) I was planning on placing a steel plate (3/8' or so) in the brakedrum and raising it up with small spacers. The raised plate would allow me to make a firepot of some sort between the plate and the bottom of the drum.

My Mousehole is 180 years old and smooth as a baby's butt. Just try to be reasonably civil. Serial number is: 204558. Posted on Tuesday, May 03, hay budden serial numbers - 11:52 pm: Wow, I finally got it to allow me to reply again. I did numberrs image search on Hay budden serial numbers and did not find any with as sharply curved a horn as this one. Should have a two-piece body of wrought iron and a steel plate.

I don't know how much of the depth that will use (I'll have a better idea after tinkering some more with the forge I have now), but I was planning to cut gaps in the sides of the brakedrum. I'll cut the slots with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder, so I can just tack some sheetmetal tabs on the removed sections and use them to close the slots (if I ever need to close them). > I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To > get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that > fits inside the brake drum rim. I left about a 2' gap where the ends of > the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap > to allow long pieces to poke through.

All the characters are about >1/2' tall. The anvil has a seam visible at the waist, and a fine line >visible where the top plate is attached. It has both a hardie and >pritchel hole also.

> > >I'll probably look at removing the heavy > >gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from > >a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but > >double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications > >in steel, make some stronger legs.

It doesn't seem to end. I've got a pile of leftover bricks (including some firebrick), so I probably need to get a book on building a small cupola (next year - the forge and anvil will definitely use up most of my free time until we get some clear weather in the spring).:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers, 0:00 น.

That might be enough of a reason to justify the purchase to my wife, but I seriously doubt it.:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers, 0:00 น. >I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list >of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like >interesting reading. Its *THE* book on the subject and I doubt that many libraries will be getting a copy. Its 552 pages, hardcover with lots of pictures and a whole lot better reading than the $60+ textbooks I keep having to get at the University. BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information on dating them. >Is a Mousehole anvil >a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about >equal?